Anyone you know from upstate or western New York — say, Buffalo, Rochester, or Syracuse — has inevitably, at some point, mentioned to you how much they love something called “Wegmans.” After they explain to you the majesty and wonder of Wegmans, you say to them, “Oh, so it’s like a nice supermarket.” To which they respond indignantly, as if you just belittled one of their children’s crayon drawings, “It is not just supermarket. It is so much more.” You recognize a crazy, unnerving look in their eyes, and you slowly back away. You never speak of Wegmans again.